Happy Christmas 2010 and New Year 2011

Bear helping me with the turkey! Bearfoot cooking!!!!!!

Matt joined us up here on Christmas Eve and we had a very Happy Christmas day, Matt spear fishing, caught a crab, and me catching a kahawai with my new rod. The fish had to go back for luck, we did have plenty of food, and the crab was 'hibernated' in the fridge and liberated (soul only I suspect) the next day. Played bananagram - a great game and enjoyed turkey and trimmings with cake and mince pies, just like home. Matt left for a week to go diving whilst we had a lazy time giving our backs a good rest but swimming every day. Weather not fantastic, showers and cloud but warm. Walked up Flagstaff Hill at midnight to see the New years fireworks over the bay. Started 2011 with sunshine and a swim, a really perfect day with a slight breeze to keep it cool. Matt due back to spend the rest of the week with us before he heads off to Brisbane for a month of training. Confirmation of Malcolm and Lovat's visit and a meeting with Phil and Helen - the next 8 weeks will go very quickly. Sitting on the deck in the sunshine watching a tui calling to it's mate and saw a lovely kingfisher on our way up from the beach. Have a resident weka in the garden, think we heard a kiwi in the night and have a family of californian quail coming for breakfast most days. Had local oysters for our last lunch in 2010. Vincent absorbed in his biochemistry and physiology, my ukelele playing improving and finding time hard to come by to keep up the blog - how did we ever work?

Back in Lovely New Zealand

Sunset at Tapeka on our first evening

Good flight from Nadi to Auckland, car for 3 months at 34 dollars a day, and off we go to quest on hobson. Nice room but not as near Matt as we hoped. Reunion!!! He looks so good, well and smart and taller.. may be I have just shrunk. Lovely japanese meal but our backs still playing up so benches difficult. Job sounds bizarre with the comings and goings in the office, more like a soap opera so wait till tomorrow. Book tickets for The Messiah. Mixed feelings - so happy to see Matt but really upset about Betty, such a lovely person - did not know about Matt's MA and very proud of him - emotions all over the place. Sleep well and go to a real supermarket with realistic sizes and good quality food. Shop till our backs give in then off to meet Matt for meal and concert. He is very tired, can hardly keep awake, the office sounds chaotic. Move to Quest on Cintra as too noisy on Hobson. Matt comes up for meal and more relaxed, boss was given notice to move this morning and regional manager taking over. Proper training in Brisbane next year and if it all goes belly up he is on a 2 month notice contract. Backs still bad but head for Phil and Helens on Thursday for another great reunion. Meet their Matt, a lovely young man, and all go for meal to local restuarant. Meet again for lunch Saturday with the 2 Matts and go to an indoor ski slope! Great location as weather not good but manage a wet walk on the beach after. A lovely day with lovely people! Farewell meal in apartment Sunday, tips with rain all day and Matt does not join us. Leave early Monday stopping to see Helen who is lending us some things for the house. Good drive to Wangerai, stop for lunch and a shop arrive at Russell to collect keys from Lesley about 3. Home... Tapeka! Next 3 months no packing! Sun shining and water warm. All our things left ftom last year here and a lovely sunset. Both feel good although still back twinges.

Fantastic Fiji

Inter island transfer, The Yasawa Flyer

The luggage arrives

Vincent wants one too

I want a sea plane!

Our bure on Octopus

With Karon and the bear

paradise!

Set off from Hannah and Matt’s at 5 am Monday morning for what should have been a 6 hour flight to Nadi in Fiji. Told there was a tropical storm that could turn to a hurricane. Delayed start then landing in Samoa on the way to be sure we could continue. Very bumpy flight and only breakfast provided! Ended up in the hotel 14 hours after getting up very hungry. Room at the Westin, Denarau very, very cold on arrival. Turned air con off and went for much needed meal. Returned from meal to find room awash with condensation. Had to change rooms , the last thing we felt like! Next day found our way round the resort on the bula bus and had good lunch at the marina. Walk along the beach and swim at the Sheraton we begin to feel human again. Taxi to seaplane next morning for a glorious flight over the reefs and islands to get to The Yasawas. Picked up by boat from the plane and taken ashore at Blue Lagoon Resort,  Nacula, to our bure.  Modern and clean with outdoor shower. All food included with welcome food and drink. 4 nights here with lovely coral reef off the beach. Take boat trip to deeper reefs in the lagoon and see amazing variety of coral. Meet Karon from Brisbane and enjoy chatting to her and other visitors from all over the world. Time passes very quickly and off on the Yasawa flyer for a two and a half hour boat trip to The Octopus Resort on Waya. Small boat transfer again and older, native built bure on the waterfront. Need mosquito net as not insect proof. Another fantastic welcome with many new people and some old friends arrivinf during our 5 days. Delicious food and entertainment every night. Sadly our crabs did not win the crab derby but our team came 2^nd in the Quiz night and we won a bottle of champagne. Vincent tried his best in the “clever” round but did not really get the hang of paper stone and scissors! Beach snorkeling very different as steep edge to the reef. Saw oriental sweetlips and lots of different damselfish as well as dragonfish and big puffer fish. Coral as good as the barrier reef, smaller but more variety in a small area with the advantage of shore access. Leave as weather is changing and have the resort boat to take us back to Nadi. Dreadful journey, skipper is determined to keep schedule despite heavy swell and know what the Torbay powerboat race must feel like. Bouncing down the waves every 30 seconds perched on a seat with only our backs to brace the shock and our hands gripped tight to the rail in front to stop falling off. People in the back soaked with spray and sick - at least we could keep our eyes on the horizon. One and a half hours later we arrived, so shaken we could hardly stand, the girls behind had been so sick they had to change their clothes. Back to the Westin and another change of rooms because the safe did not work! 3 nights to recover, not enough as we could hardly walk for the damage to our backs. Had some nice trips to the marina and enjoyed a lobster meal. Nadi airport a joy, smiling immigration officials, still very efficient, US customs should send people to learn good practice!

Goodbye Hawaii

We enjoyed our last week back on Oahu with Hannah and Matthew. They both had a long weekend break having the Friday off work as well as Thanksgiving.  We ate our turkey Wednesday evening as it was already Thursday on the East Coast where Matthew's family live and the neighbors had invited us over on Thursday. Matthew carved his first turkey and we were able to video the event to send to Cindy, his mom. We enjoyed a nice walk along the beach Thursday before meeting Cheryl, Dave and their family as well as other friends and neighbors. Everybody took some food and the meal lasted about 4 hours. perfect weather here, with a shower most nights to keep the temperature down. Had a lovely walk with Daphne on Friday, saw some very exotic birds on the way but they are all quite common here. Off early Sunday morning on our flight to Fiji so preparation Saturday as we shall only be able to take one small case on our island hopping.

What an anniversary!

Up before dawn for an early morning helicopter flight before the clouds form on Mona Loa, the active volcano. Flew right over the active crater and down along the lava tube that takes the current flow to the sea. Glimpses of lava down through parts of the tube that have collapsed and then again as it spills out above the cliffs into the sea. On across the island to the North East shore where towering cliffs. one of the sides of Mona Kea, drop down very steeply into the sea. There are no roads as the the volcano sides are too steep and are intersected with steep valleys, each with waterfalls, dropping almost sheer to the valley floors, The highest at 1,200ft one of the biggest in the world. Back for lunch and a rest before setting off on a night boat trip out beyond the reef to swim with the manta rays. We had about 7 swimming with us, one about 16 - 18ft across. They come right to the surface, just below you and one kept circling, just below me touching me, belly to belly on some of it's circuits! Oh to be 64!

even more mantas

Not even scared!

more mantas

Yes, I really took these!

Mantas

Up the mountain

With our friend

Altitude and hair

Altitude, no hair and Big Island peaks

Rare nene geese

Not such a bad drive as expected. !0,000 ft up from sea level in 2 hours. Lucky with weather so good views of the crater 3,000 ft below. Could see above the clouds to the twin peaks of The Big Island about 60 miles away and our next stop. Visited a botanic garden in the temperate zone on the way down. Our last  home cooked meal until Oahu with our lovely balcony and sea view. Visited the aquarium on the way to the airport and had an interesting chat with Mike, one of the guides about the problems of jobs for young people on the islands. Pick up car at Kona and get room change to ocean/sunset view on request at The Outrigger resort. Just in time for sunset from balcony and book trips whilst having meal. Dreadful night after meal out Will I ever eat again - so ill!!

Back to the wedding tree!

Our apartment at Kihei

Better at sunset!

As we might now really be married, having redeemed the 15$ order and resubmitted a 14$ one, went back to baby beach, Lahaina, THE PLACE. Snorkeled this time and saw a lagoon humuhumunukunukuapuaa, bigger and more colourful than the reef variety we have been seeing. Lunch at Babba Gumps looking back to Molakai across that awful stretch of water. Prawns galore and a marguerita - delicious!

Bluefin Trevally

Rather a muddled last entry! Pork chops not whilst snorkeling!

Snorkelling and snorkelling

That should be Kihei. Apartment overlooks a busy road but the sea just over the road. Go to the most highly recommended site on the island at Ahihi cove in Makena. Lovely coral and many new fish including 2 bluefin trevally, about 3ft long and iridescent blue and grey. The cove in a park reserve, the site of the last eruption on Maui in 1790. Very jagged lava rocks so surf shoes essential. Potter round some shops and pork chops with corn seasoning and pineapple - very good. Try the snorkelling just over the road and again lovely coral and good variety of fish although smaller. Along to Ulua beach in Wailea just up the road and  swim to deep water along reef from beach. BBQ facility for all apartments worked brilliantly on steak and Vincent had a few social moments cooking it. Lovely evening on balcony playing Yahtzee, must buy one for onward travel.

11th/12th November Maui

Downgraded car again on arrival at Kahului knowing we were headed on ' the road to Hana' the Hawaiian equivalent to the Amalfi coast road. Not disappointed, 45 miles of narrow, part one lane, twisty road with a sheer drop to the ocean when not dipping to a black sandy beach. We stopped to climb a steep path through eucalyptus and bamboo forest for a view of one of the many waterfalls. Picnicked overlooking the ocean. The arrival at the yurt in Hana was amazing. Both very tired after a 5.30 start. It was a circular tent done out inside like a luxury hotel room complete with kitchen. The bathroom was a bamboo outhouse with an open air shower complete with luxury spa goodies and orchids! After a town recce we decided on the one 'ranch' restaurant. Watched swimmers, surfers and paddlers on an outrigger canoe on the beach. Walked to a poor meal with obsequious waiter, Greek salad with no olives! Yurt very cosy especially in the rain although loo visits in the night too exciting. On to botanical garden closed for a furlough due to economic climate! Beach park with stunning views but could not leave car out of sight as warnings of thefts, all our worldly goods for the next 5 months inside! Back for coffee and banana bread to talk with Danni a Berkley drop out helping with the banana bread whilst she decides whether to go back. Vincent gave firm advice and she seemed receptive. On to another garden 15 miles, 1 hour down the road, giving a lift to young man, born in Hana, with a grandfather pure Hawaiian, involved in the Hawaiian independence movement. Lots of local history on the way. Lovely gardens of Eden, with views to the ocean used in the opening scenes of Jurassic Park. On to apartment in Kehlio overlooking the ocean across the road but suspect bedding we throw straight in the wash. Good local shop and meal on the balcony.

I could get used to this!

Sunset every evening

What a location!

Kauai was our luxury booking for this trip and it really has been a taste of paradise in every sense. The apartment and location have made it, but the island itself is so spectacular with plenty to see that our expectations were exceeded. We have almost become blasee about turtles and wonderful colourful fish just outside our back door! We have eaten in every day as the setting beats any restuarant. Plenty of fresh local food and a well stocked kitchen, make cooking to the sound of the surf a pleasure.

fish day!

Could not download the turtle yesterday! Quality not good as too near the shore.

Turtle day!

Hannah had managed to be in the water at the same time as the turtles but so far we have just watched them from our patio. Going for our morning swim/snorkel wf saw a huge one very near the shore. Risking life and limb, as I would on such an occasion, I plunged in to find myself next to the giant! Whipping my camera from my ample bosom, I managed a few poor shots. The nearer the shore the more bubbles which the camera picks up. Got some lovely fish pictures further out showing the variety and size of fish in this magic spot. On to the grand canyon of Hawaii which was very dramatic and not unlike the real one. 3,500 feet up looking down to the ocean and across to valleys carved out of the lava rock. Back for another swim with an even bigger turtle further out. Home cooked meal of moderate quantity which is not possible eating out! Another paradise day!

Monday 8th November

Hannah and Matthew back in Oahu with Daphne and we are still suffering here! Started the day with an amazing snorkel, lots of colourful fish, and big shoals as well. Decided to do the marathon drive to the north coast. Scenery more dramatic and road narrower the further you go. We a topped for a lebonese??? meal near tunnel beach, good for snorkelling but not at this time of year. Road ran out at Kee beach which is the start of the haena state park. Walked part of the Kalaoau trail but steep, slippery and dangerous so we turned back very early. Lovely views of the beach and people snorkelling along the reef. Cool water was very tempting after the walk and with lifeguards watching we expected a fish event! Disappointed, not a patch on our beach and the rip tide trying to pull us out of the gap in the reef made it more exciting than we can cope with at our age! The thought of nothing between the gap in the reef and Alaska gave us an amazing turn of speed. Lovely drive back over narrow bridges with the sea on one side and sheer mountainsides on the other. Realised we do not leave until Thursday so we have gained a day here. Back to a multicoloured sunset over the sea and wonder how we will cope with an extra day!

Another snorkelling day

Watch white tropicbirds catching fish from a waterfall! Lunch on a beach at Dukes, a hawaiian surfing legend come diner owner, followed by an offer to teach us hawaiian paddle surfing which we shall think about, are we too old? Back to our beach to snorkel, Hannah tries my underwater camera and films a turtle just in front of our apartment.

4th to 6th November Kauai

Drop Daphne of at her luxury resort for a weekend of socializing with like minded pooches and of for the half hour flight. Paradise found! After changing enormous upgraded limousine for a more manageable car drive the 15 miles to our apartment at Pohoi. Ground floor right on the edge of te sea! Walk alng the greensward in front of the block to a snorkelling bay tucked behind a reef. Amazing snorkelling with very large specimens. The biggest parrotfish,butterfly and other types we have ever seen. Even Matthew and Hannah find them large. Turtle pops his head up just in front of our apartment and we learn that we have just missed a monk seal which was on the beach. Steaks for supper after a big shop in surprisingly well stocked supermarket. Snorkel again after breakfast on Dad's birthday, he would have been 99! Hannah showed us an eel hiding in the coral. Matthew finishes work early and we all go to botanical garden nearby, they head off but we carry on with a guided tour into a valley with native,canoe and introduced plants. Cook was here, discovering the island on his way north to find a northwest passage. Back for another snorkel then seared tuna with papaya salsa - really good.

31st October to 3rd November

Fly out on time from Dallas after 3 terminal changes! American Airlines is poor compared to BA. At one stage they announced that we should all go and buy food and drink as there was none on the 8 hour flight!  Vincent queried if this applied to first and we were reassured, but what a shambles. No TV and fierce, cold aircon, ended up with runny nose and eyes. Lovely greeting by Hannah and Matthew with leis for us both and whisked away to a waterfront restuarant for a delicious meal. Jetlagged birthday but lovely to be here. Banners put up by Hannah and Matthew and a gentle hawaiin CD - a perfect present. Daphne a joy, great fun and we have now been accepted as member of the family. Cooked a meal, mediterranean chicken, such a treat after eating out for 3 weeks. Nice family meal and good birthday. Matthew left for Kauai Tuesday morning and we explored Kaneohe before Hannah left for work. Lovely flowers and trees with sea view all the time. Took Daphne for a walk and sat in the garden. Meal in again with Hannah and early night as time difference telling. Another lazy day Wednesday and spoke to Jen Niamh and Mollie. The problems of Percy. Into the fridge for him on Saturday after concentrated bathing/ drinking to make him hydrate. Thinking about contacting RSPCA after hearing Jen left him in a bath for 1hour 15 minutes instead of 15 minutes only to rush home and find he he had achieved a supertortoise feat and got himself up the sheer walls rather than face drowning - I was not sure which bath she was talking about - if it was theirs they should put him on TV! Well done to Matt for doing a marathon in a porpoise suit and with a gammy knee, and good luck to Nick with his new job this week.

Dallas

29th/30th October 2010

Driving on freeways! Nightmare on 45! Houston traffic makes the M25 look like a country lane. At one stage we had 2 intercontinental lorries either side of us, no sky view, all moving at 70mph. Five hours driving to Dallas to the refuge of a Best Western in Dallas. Recovery time short as not walking distance to anywhere - another drive into downtown. parked in 'historic' district. Poor seedy feel like so many city areas next to railway and bus stations. V had looked up the sculpture park and headed there to see one of the best examples of public art we have seen. Life plus bronzes of longhorns on the trail, such real replicas of the cattle and cowboys crossing a stream. Back to our room, exhausted,with some wine and a takeaway from Dennys over the road, pits in diners! Jen then skyped like a ray of sun! So good to see her and hear they are all well. No rush in the morning as just Dallas to explore then drop car off and back to our seedy but comfortable hotel at the airport. All worked so well. Parked in same place as yesterday but no traffic as Saturday. Walked to the book depository museum, site of Kennedy assassination in 1963. Strangely unmoved, sad for the children whose lives were blighted, but perhaps would have been anyway. The only question we both had was would Vietnam have happened in the same way? From our reading last year we concluded that nothing would have ben any different. Same advisors, policies and military men. Johnson just followed the path set on by Kennedy. much glorification of the conspiracy theories but looking at the evidence presented in the museum you wondered where they all came from. Back in the car to the art museum and safe parking. Lunch of delicious boef bourginon to vivaldi. The mourners exhibition of alabaster 15th century figures from the tombs of the dukes of Burgundy, the Valois line, was amazing. from the Carthusian monastary of Champson they were so lifelike. Back almost freeway free to hotel, deposit bags in our room, take car back to Herz, 2 shuttles and back at hotel! Walked across freeway bridge to a red lobster. 5 star diner experience tonight and back for last night in Texas. Caught Laura, still up at midnight. So good to speak to her sounding very up. Nick has new job starting Monday with higher pay teaching french speaking Canadians. He also sounded up just going to a birthday party. Adios Texas!

Mission control

Thursday - must be Houston!

Good night after all the walking yesterday and away before 9. Freeway drive out gets the pulse racing but soon back on 10 to Houston. Through Flatoville seeing bison in field by the road! Rich rolling agricultural land with plenty of trees and rivers, the settlers must have pinched themselves arriving here. Drive straight to the space centre for the 1.20 tram tour of the sight. So emotional! Both of us really moved to be standing in the actual mission centre we saw on TV in 1969 when' the first small step ' was taken. The real saturn rocket used in the test run is huge with the sections fired off diminishing in size to the actual capsule. All the parts of the space station are in another hanger used as simulations for training. 14,000 people are still employed here planning and testing for the unmanned mars mission. After a fantastic film of footage from the actual mission we have a wonderful guide who was actually a scientist involved with the missions. The actual capsule that returned them to earth is on display - we touched it! But for us to TOUCH moon rock was something neither of us could ever imagine doing listening to that momentous time in our lives 41 years ago. The scientific spin offs forced years ahead of time by the space program made us aware of how our lives have been enhanced by that investment, itself partly a result of the cold war. Best Western again, superb room and walk to shopping mall next door (half a mile) for take out chicken and fresh fruit salad in our room.

last day San An

Did a thorough tour of The Alamo. They try hard with what little there is and this of dubious historical value! Back to the Cathedral and the reconstructed remains of the governors house, The one guide knows less than us - we did not think she had read the guide book! Rather like Seville sitting in the reconstructed courtyard on the reconstructed seats looking at the well, reconstructed from an imaginary vision. The day is hot and it is a peaceful spot as we are the only visitors. Could really have claimed a refund but not worth the bother for $5. Chose the only unexplored, rather unpopular, part of the riverwalk back to our cool room. Nicely planted with a coote and a grebe an the water - we could have been by The Yare but this was narrower and no gross sculptures. Out to our final riverwalk meal, carefully chosen low fat options, the sights get worse everyday. Fall into conversation with a South African father and daughter, she now with a green card and set to become American with her husband and children. They tell us about the reality of South Africa today, very much in line with what the couple in Brisbane had to say last year. Father had been robbed at gun and knife point twice in the last year and was surprised to be alive. Both had friends killed in senseless attacks. A pleasant, easy city to visit, quite unamerican  in the walking possibilities for tourists - we have not been in the car for 2 days!

Tuesday 26th October

Could make our own waffles for breakfast! No rush! Ambled to the riverside shopping mall to top up - contact lens fluid,  conditioner, emory sticks, and postcards. Half price of home. Onto a yellow bus to Texas cultural heritage museum. all immigrants included, never heard of the Wendles from central europe! Spanish and Mexican not there! Got nice photo of bear on a school bus - so many school groups there but could not take photo with one - not politically correct! Lovely parks leading back to the riverside and mock spanish village. Have a t shirt personalised and go through 3rd degree to buy stamps at a post office. Web research back in our room for a break after 6 mile walk directs us to the best restuarant on riverwalk - La Pescara - as good as the best in London! Free! We took such cheap lodging! Amble back in balmy air with the high from a really superb meal - good day - like San An.

Observatory in the distance

Monday 25th October 2010 San Antonio

Lovely room and a bed as good as home at The Best Western Del Rio. Spoke to the owner, a Ugandan British with another hotel franchise as well. He is refurbishing all the rooms. We had a swim in the pool and a good breakfast. 250 miles to San Antonio through scrubby semi desert. Easy roads with little traffic on Sunday. Coffee stop at Castroville (really!) and swap driving. In San An by 1.30 with the travelodge a pleasant surprise. Get a blue tourist bus from the Alamo which is only 2 blocks away. Go to market square for a browse before strolling back through town to the riverwalk. A bizarre place, the tourist hotspot which nearly ended up as a covered sewer! Failed to avoid another tex/mex meal but there were whole beans rather than refried and the ducks liked the nachos!

Sunday 24th Del Rio

Over 300 miles across the desert Southwards to Del Rio on the Border again. Priceline booking for Best Western  at less than £40 for huge room, pool and breakfast with REAL internet to catch up on admin and book ahead for the rest of the week. Relax and have our last tex/mex meal for a while at a diner 2 blocks away. Tried downtown but not Sunday and probably not the rest of the week. Highlight of the day apart from the desert scenery which never tires with the mountains in the background, listening to the Alan Bennett Diaries. Should have bought the next maybe in Hawaii. San Antonio next stop.

Friday/Saturday 22/23 October

Friday 22^nd October Saturday 23rd

Left Chisos Lodge by  9 for 150 Mile journey to the Davis Mountains NW. Only saw about a dozen cars on the way to Alpine, 100 miles on and our fuel and coffee stop. Arrived at Fort Davis  by Noon  in time to send our first package of books back to the girls, also sent some cards to the school. On to The McDonald Observatory to catch their afternoon tour. Dramatic approach to the visitor centre with 3 big telescopes on top of the mountains and smaller ones lower down. Had picnic in the car after getting tickets then saw a presentation in the Theatre. Introduction to spectography, without which the astronomers would have no knowledge of the sky. Interesting lecture then a tour of the telescopes.  First and largest structure was the 107 inch lens  telescope, built in the 60’s and the 3^rd largest in the world at the time. We were shown how to move the scope and then rotate the dome to align the opening. The pictures taken and work done classifying stars is amazing. We then moved to the most modern, the Hobby Eberly with the largest telescope mirror in the world. The structure is so simple, with the size of the mirror cutting out the need for a traditional scope. A fascinating tour which opened up whole new areas of knowledge to us both! Back to Indian lodge and a junior suite at a reasonable rate – we were about to find out why. No coffee maker and ended up driving 4 miles into town  despite the efforts of the check in staff to give us hot water for our tea bags! Restaurant has no alcohol, so no glass of wine with our adequate but diner style meal. This place is supposed to be the gem of the park service accommodation! The best was to come – disturbing noise from the room above, every word could be heard and there were a lot of people up there. The footsteps echoed and creaked, magnified by the sound box of the room. We were so tired – but the party above started watching a ball game, cheering it on and enjoying themselves, not in a raucous way just people enjoying a holiday, but the noise in our room! I ended up sleeping in the wardrobe closet next door on cushions from the settee and Vincent fell asleep, finally with exhaustion. They were all up by 7.30 but at least the restaurant did not charge for hot water for the tea. When we went to leave a day early the woman at the desk was horrified. We should have been told that there was no sound insulation at that, older end of the building and they are constantly having complaints. We were given another, more modern room and decided to stay as planned. Both tired we went into town to buy a picnic lunch then set off on a 5 mile trail in the hills. Relaxing late afternoon, tex mex meal in the diner and we know we shall sleep well tonight!

Davis mountains

Hot springs

Big Bend

By the Rio Grande

Shack at Marathon

Encounters

Wednesday  20^th October 2010  Rio Grande Village

Leave room as have to move for the next 2 nights!! Only 25 mile drive to  the river but lots of stops and 45 mph limit.  Dugout Wells first turn off. Site of school in 20’s with a few homesteads around. The ubiquitous water/wind mill without which no settlement would be possible. Nothing else remains but the mill is kept going for wildlife. A grove of cottonwood trees stand out in the desert to make the site easily identifiable. The desert trail from the mill was very good and we spent a good hour identifying shrubs and cacti with the help of the trail markers. Now know our 3 species of prickly pear and our creosote bush! Another tarantula, they must be quite common so no no no to camping! On to the Bochodillas overlook looking into a poor town in Mexico. There are  home produced goods for sale by the tracks with pots to put the money in. The Mexicans can be seen across the river and must come to collect the money  when the border patrols have gone. We went on a trail by the river where a Mexican with a canoe  was singing with his collecting pots scattered about!. We later saw him cross back with his takings. Had a picnic by the river and walked back up the cliff in 91 degrees. Driven to the only store in the village for  a cold drink both so hot! On to  Rio Grande hot springs – did not need more heat and nearly gave it a miss! A walk along a trail by a failed motel site and Indian hieroglyphics.. The spring was tiny and silted up from the river overflow but to sit in it with a small wall separating you from the muddy, cold river was an experience. One leg in the hot spring at 105 degrees and the other in the river was very different! An air con drive back to book in again to a new room with a cup of lemon tea was bliss.  More heat with chilli for dinner, spoke to Matt before  which was nice. People next to us at dinner saw a bear today so maybe us tomorrow. Saw a deer walking down to dinner so our tally is mounting.

Thursday21st October Chisos Lodge

Off before 9 to do a steep ascent before it gets too hot. The lost mine trail goes up 1300 feet in 5 miles. Start well seeing a large, brightly coloured lizard and a herd of deer in the pine forest. Good labels enable us to distinguish our Mexican droopy juniper from the alligator juniper from our one seed juniper! Canyons open as we get higher and the views beyond the Chisos in the early morning light are spectacular.  2 hours later at the top, 7400feet up we meet an amazing couple, Dina and Jim. About 10 yeas younger than us they have been coming here for 13 years. They are full time guardians for a granddaughter and great nephew of 7 and 8. Dina’s mother is  looking after the children for 2 weeks whilst they have a break! They did not go into detail but the background to the circumstance together with the hard work must be difficult for them. They had just come from the Davis mountains and pointed us there for our next stop as we obviously like the same things. Could have talked for hours, 2 very special people. Met our next tarantula on the way down, getting quite blasee about them now. Back for late picnic lunch outside our lodge and then down to the centre to do admin. Spoke to Jen who has a cold but sounds bright and e mail from Laura, very cheery. Manage to book Indian Lodge In Davis mountains for 2 nights and shall try to go to a star party at the Macdonall observatory as recommended by Dina and Jim. Back for a cup of tea and meet our neighbour Jo from Austin. She has been coming here for many years and confirms what many people have told us that most Texans do not know about Big Bend. She has a 100% disabled son from the war in Afghanistan and obviously has a hard time. She works in the governors office in Austin for the disabilities section. Meeting such people and seeing how they cope with such misfortune is very humbling. 

big bend

Monday 18^th October Marathon to Chisos Basin

Good night in Marathon Motel despite trains running all night.  Leave about 11 after guided tour of butterflies with Mac, lovely sunny day again although cold overnight.  About 30 miles to park entrance and another 30 to Panther Creek visitor centre. Lots of interest points on the way including a grave of a young mother who died at 31 leaving 3 young children. She was the wife of the schoolteacher at a tiny settlement 8 miles from their homestead, he must have ‘commuted’ across the desert by horse. She died after giving birth to her last child and wanted to be buried in the desert, a very sad story , one wonders what happened to the family. The desert really is very beautiful here with the backdrop of the Davis and Chisos mountains. We see prarie dogs scampering about but they are too shy to get photos. Interesting visitor centre with mock ups of mountain animals in the Chisos, mountain lions, black bears, javelinas, jackrabbits, coyotes and many insects as well as tarantulas.  Go on a cactus walk to help identify the different types, very well done.  Up into the mountains and our lodge in the basin.  Through the pass at 5500feet and look down into the basin with the backdrop of mountains around it  -  a really stunning sight.. Have picnic lunch looking through ‘window ‘ to plains and Christmas mountains. Set off on basin loop trail as check in not till 4. 2 mile circulr path and we start upwards. *&degrees but very dry air, plenty of pine and scrub for shelter. A tarantula on the path ahead of us! It stops in some grass and watches us, huge hairy spider but not as scarey as I thought. Got some good photos, both thrilled to have seen one. Round 2 more bends in the trail and another one! This does not stop and a little larger than the first. Back to lovely room with a bed like ours at home! Down to ranger centre for meal with sunset on the mountains and moon over Emory Peak behind us. What a day!

Tuesday 19^th October  Basin to Castolon

Stop at only gas station to fill up and take coffee with us to have at first view point Nail family homestead. The plain we drive through used to be quite fertile until overgrazing and the drought of the 30s. One family’s attempt at the good life in the 20’s. An adobe hut, water mill – still clanking away – and some fig and pecan trees all that remain. The clank of the pump would have finished me! On to  a trail through a tufa canyon. Very hot but the steep walls give some shade. Huge boulders of basalt and granite thrown up by the volcano are buried in the tufa, ash compressed into rock. Lovely colours of different rocks washed through the canyon over hundreds of thousands of years.  Castolon  an original one horse town and still is. Hot and bleak, dominated by a high peak and overlooking the muddy, unimpressive Rio Grande. Mexico is very impressive – 1500 feet high cliffs across the river to a plateau which is the chihauhuan desert. A coyote crosses the road as we head down to the river. All thoughts of a canoe paddle go as we look at the uninviting water. Along the bank to  Santa Elena canyon where the river has cut a 1500 foot gorge through the limestone, very impressive sight.  Drive back after a late picnic lunch and enjoy the view from outside our lodge. Good meal again – one steak between 2 – each with a bigger portion than UK average, no wonder so many people in the US are overweight!

A 400 mile drive towards the border

Up early, not difficult with paper thin walls in our budget motel! 150 miles by 9.30 with a breakfast stop in the middle of the desert and refuel. Avery pretty desert, not what we expected, across a limestone plateau rather like parts of menorca. On to Fort Stockton, a last outpost before the mountains of Big Bend. More fuel and a shop as we have no idea what will be available in the park. Arrive at our Motel about 1pm to a pleasant surprise. Adobe courtyard with fire pit, clean wooden cabin, paradise until the first freight train with whistle blowing for the crossing over the road passes! We then notice the earplugs, by courtesy, next to the bed. The trains are about half a mile long and run all night. Trip down to a small park by an old fort built to stop Apache attacks on the settlers, banded kingfisher and gold chested woodpeckers by the spring. Mexican local diner in Marathon, the 'town' with smoked pulled brisket, BBQ sauce home made, home grown salad and home made salsa. Superb food washed down with 2 really good margaritas. The waitress is doing a PHD in conflict and peace based on research in Fiji! Back to motel for sunset across the Marathon plain, 4400 feet up with views to the mountains, idyllic until we notice the windmill behind our cabin which has a metallic knock every time the bore lifts the water! Another glass of wine... all good intentions out of the noise!

Enchanted Rock

15 miles out of Fredericksburg this state park centres on a huge pink granite rock, really a large hill, almost a small mountain! Despite the efforts of the rangers we finally inched our way through the traffic jam at the entrance and with the clever ploy of getting Vincent to walk to the ticket kiosk before engaging in lengthy conversation about how I was today and where I was and how I could park in the lot facing me and walk into the kiosk to get a ticket Vincent was back and we drove straight in! It was certainly a time record for the day and probably the season, how do they do it? Pictures of the rock cannot do it justice. With perfect weather and stunning views all the way up we reached the summit at 1800 feet, ascending nearly 500 feet in about 45 minutes. Small islands of vegetation,always with prickly pear, cling to any crevice in the granite. I decided pink is a very good granite colour! Back for lunch from the doggy bag then off to the pacific war museum in Fredericksburg. Admiral Nimitz, the prime strategist for the US victory in the Pacific lived in the town - hence the museum. Amazing displays and video footage of the battles with the casing of an A bomb at the end. There could have been no other end to the war. An outdoor guided display of a PT boat, beachhead and field hospital ended the visit. A very impressive museum, especially as we visited Pearl Harbour last year. What a fortunate generation we are never to have had a war. Decided we had to sample German food and found it delicious! Red cabbage, wiener schizel, and German potatoes went down well. Back for early night as early start next day.

Fredericksburg

Got away from freeways and into the real Texas. Gentle rolling hills and grassland, ranch entrances with the brand mark in wrought iron on the huge gates and big blue sky! Hamilton Pool state park first stop. Clamber down limestone trail to an emerald green pool under a cliff overhang with the water dripping from the stalagtites above. It looks more like a film set. We walk right under cliff and around the pool before heading down along the river. So peaceful with fish in the clear water, birds darting around and lovely trees along the bank. Drive along empty roads, more like Norfolk, to The Johnson Ranch, another state park, the home of the former president. Tour a former German farmstead worked by voluteers in period costume. All very tidy and reminded how to make junket and cheese. Drive around the huge ranch and the Texas white house as it was called. On to our beget motel in Fredericksburg which had to exceed our low expectation. We read the awful reviews after booking it for 2 nights! Unchanged since it was built in 70's but comfortable, wifi, coffee and pastries in reception for breakfast and good value. Town is a delight. Centre of German settlement in 19th century with main street lined with historic buildings, now either gift shops or restaurants. Avoid the bierkellars and have a good meal with enough in the doggy bag for lunch tomorrow. Tackle the huge walmart to buy a cell phone. 2 hors later leave with a phone and rummikub, lemons, wine and bananas. Took all that time for service, we were not browsing! How do they keep in business?

America again!

Easy journey courtesy of BA business class again. Great value the round the world ticket. Left Heathrow just before midday and in Dallas at 9.30pm UK 3.30 US Only had to queue 45 mins at US customs and actually interrogated by an officer who smiled! Airport hotel, diner meal - tried fried pickles a once in a lifetime experience - then a good 12 hour sleep. Up early Thursday 14th October and collect the car from Herz. Upgrade and satnav due to gold membership and on our way to Austin, the state capital. A 12 lane freeway to negotiate out of Dallas so not a relaxing drive. Like the M25 with cars overtaking in any lane and all nose to tail, the satnav is essential for planning ahead for the turnoff which can be to the right or left. 200 mile drive and arrived at lunchtime. Nice holiday inn on club points and room with view over the lake which is part of the Colorado River. Set off to explore city on foot. Walk song lakeside to Congress bridge and up congress drive to the Capitol building. Lots of flags with every stars and stripes matched by an equal sized lone star flag. Lovely day and a sparkling city with smiling, friendly people. Lots of sculptures and trees. Iced tea for the heat then a walk round 6th street district with wacky bars all with loud, live music coming out! End up back on lake to have superb sundown margarita. Sit on lakeside platform with feet dangling over the water, or in it for Vincent, with terrapins surfacing around us. Joined by dozens of other people as the sun goes down to watch about a million Mexican free tailored bats leave their roost from under the bridge. The sunset is black streaked with them! An amazing sight ending our first day.

Travelling light, but not taking the car! Anything to get away from the rain!